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    pandapi
    Jul 27, 2020

    How to install autolevel onto the Pandapi v2.5 board?

    in PandaPi FDM 3D printer

    Greetings,

    I've just received my Pandpi v2.5 and installed it onto my FLSUN i3 Plus. I've been unable to get the Z home button to function properly when using my FLSUN autolevel.


    I noticed I'm getting "checksum mismatch" messages constantly in marlin as well:

    checksum mismatch=186=58

    checksum mismatch=187=59

    checksum mismatch=185=57

    checksum mismatch=190=62

    checksum mismatch=196=58

    checksum mismatch=185=57

    checksum mismatch=189=61


    Any help would be greatly appreciated!


    Thanks,

    Dave


    6 answers3 replies
    0
    1
    pandapi
    Jul 28, 2020  ·  Edited: Jul 28, 2020

    Additional information:


    I'm using the FLSUN autolevel but it doesn't appear to be getting any power. I've also tried using the z-axis endstop but it doesn't work either. As far as I can tell the z-axis endstop on the board isn't working at all.

    1
    Yue Mark
    Jul 29, 2020

    sorry for reply late!

    the data between MCU and RaspberryPi are transferred intervally, it's normal that there are mismatch sometime.

    you can try to plug in the X endstop to the z endstop connector and then home Z and to see if it work?

    here is the diagram of the z endstop pin



    1
    pandapi
    Jul 29, 2020  ·  Edited: Jul 29, 2020

    OK, this is very interesting. I did a bunch of testing and here is what I found.

    When I connected the Z endstop into the Z connector and the X endstop to the X connector, the Z endstop didn't work when sending the "Z" home command in octoprint. However, if I swap them, Z endstop to X connector and X endstop to Z connector. then manually flip the proper endstop switch, it works as expected.


    When it's working, it hits the switch, backs up then hits it again and stops. (or when I'm manually doing it, I toggle the switch on, off then on when it returns)


    The endstop switches are the same type, I'm going to try and swap the switches to see if that will do anything tomorrow.


    Are there any special instructions for setting up autolevel using a proximity sensor like the FLSUN autolevel?


    Also, I've been through config.h and config_adv.h a few times and don't see what I could be missing for autolevel.


    I've enabled: Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN

    FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE

    AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR


    Thanks for the help!

    Dave

    1
    Yue Mark
    Jul 29, 2020

    you can send 'M119' in the octoprint,it will return the status information of the endstop

    1
    pandapi
    Jul 29, 2020

    OK, thanks!


    I'll research G codes more.

    1
    Yue Mark
    Jul 29, 2020

    you can try to invert the logic of the probe or Z in the Configuration.h


    // Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).

    #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

    #define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

    #define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

    #define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

    #define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

    #define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

    #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the probe.


    pandapi
    Aug 01, 2020  ·  Edited: Aug 01, 2020

    I wasn't able to get anything to work when the Z endstop/probe was connected to the Z connector. I swapped the Z with the X on the board and in the pins.h file. After doing this, I was able to use the Z endstop but the probe still doesn't work on the Pandapi.


    Also when attempting to feed filament into the printer I turned on the hotend, at about 150deg c it stopped working. Upon inspection I found some black marks on the pandapi board and the copper leading from the positive lead to the bed heater was able to peel back.


    In the meantime, I've reconnected my MKS GEN L v1.0 board and the probe works fine on that device.


    It appears to me that I may have received a faulty board, what do I need to do for a replacement?



    0
    Yue Mark
    Aug 10, 2020

    @pandapi so sorry for replay late! and I have received your email for this problem,and I will send you new board today with postal.

    that seems there had been very high current that burn the PCB line. how about the otherside of the board near the mosfet,is the mosfet burned too?

    0
    pandapi
    Aug 29, 2020

    Sorry for the late reply, yes the other side was scorched as well. I had this board connected to a 12v PS that was capable of up to 30A iirc.


    I've used this same PS with a Makerbase MKS Gen L v1.0 and Bigtree SKR Pro v1.2 boards with no power issues.


    p.s. Thanks for resending the board, I just received it and am setting it up now.

    0